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This is obviously not supposed to be exhaustive by any means but is simply a short list of amazing breaks that on their day offer up world class waves. I have also had the incredible privilege of having more than a months stay at each on my travels around the world. I feel privileged to have been able to surf these breaks, many of which I will go back to. Also, all the area's around the breaks are worth trip on their own so for those of you who don't think dropping in on bombs all day is how you want to spend your time, all these areas have lot to offer.
We will start off with where it all started! Growing up in this town it is pretty hard not to be a water rat. Durban and the surrounding coast has more than its fair share of epic breaks too many to name here but the punchy right off the Snake Park Pier holds something special in my heart. With the year round water temperature averaging mid seventies and secluded breaks up and down the coast for those looking for the search it's a board riders and most definitely a bodysurfers heaven. The natal coast has mostly sand bottoms and some unbelievably steep awesome shore breaks just keep an eye out for the man in the grey suit.
The Wreck , The pass , Cosy Corner and Watego's to name but a few of the epic breaks around Byron bay. Anyone of which is bound to attract swell because of the unique layout and The fact that its Australia most easterly point. Add the incredible scenery and the awesome hospitality of the locals laid-back living Byron goes down as one of the best places I have ever been. This is a special place to visit and an incredible place to call home for a couple months!
The palm fringed peeling perfection view from the back of bike as we rounded the corner after 3 days of travel to get to Nias is sight I will take to my grave. An entire month of epic surf the only downside is, nothing you ever surf again will be that good! Barrels you only ever get to see in surfer mag. Nias was the first time I successfully dropped in on a handboard over a reef. In hindsight, not a great idea being a long long way from anything that would resemble medical care but hell it was fun. My visit was pre-earthquake which as far as I have read has only made this epic right mac truck sized barrels even better. Be prepared to take a beating.
The above picture above was taken on a film camera in 1999 after an epic 7 hour session directly in front of our Hostel / Hotel. The image's serenity belies the ferocity of the wave that rears its head at either shipwrecks to the right, razors in the middle and then lacerations in the far top left. They are all named that for a reason, razors in particularcan be a brutal must make section. However, get it right and you have the absolute ride of your life. Get it wrong and you will be on the receiving end of a razor sharp reef. Lembongan island just off the coast of Bali is a truly epic indo spot not to be missed. We spent a month here and got absolutely shacked from day one through. The fresh fish everyday is worth the trip alone....Oh and make sure to take a good pair of booties and Iodine.
In my list by default and arguably California's most infamous bodysurfing ride and should be on the top of any serious body surfers bucket list . I can tell you from experience this is a wave not to be taken lightly no matter how good you are. If it's not the aura of the spot then it's the downright power. I have never ridden a wave that intent on making sure you get off it it akin to taming a prize winning rodeo bull just with bigger horns. The energy runs through it is humbling. If you don't end up with C2 injury then you are hooting like you just caught your first wave!!
Yes the place with the Bra boys. Maroubra is a small cove situated just right to pick up lot of the the NE swell and when it hits it is perfection. I spent 3 months living here in 1999 after my trip to Indo and got some of the best that Maroubra had to offer over a good winter swell season. Maroubra is also a short drive to a number of other awesome spots including Coogee bay and Bondi and the infamous Ours which are high on my list of awesome places.
Venice Beach, with its eclectic mix of freaks, hipsters and everything else living seemingly happily side by side. On its day there is some great surf to be had. If it's not barrels off breakwater or secret moving sand banks south of pier then it's only a short drive from world class Malibu and my favorite bone crunching Zuma shore break. Venice also holds the accolades as being the Home of the Z -boys the Doors and the decaying California beach style. it is the entire package that makes Venice one very weird and wonderful place to surf and to live
Llandudno is the Place of my own first lessons in being a water-man. Arguably, one of the most beautiful surf spots in the world just take a look at the image, I was blessed to grow up in such an incredibly beautiful place. The frigid water and the man in the grey suit keep only the truly dedicated in the water. Llandudno is just around the corner from Dungeons and Hout bay so this place is not for the faint of heart when it fires.
Situated just north of the small fishing town of Tarazhout and 19 km north of the city of Agadir in the south west of Morocco. The inhabitants are mostly of Berber origin. Fishing, tourism, and the production of Argan oil being the main source of income. I spent a month living in those small building like structure to the left with an Australian surfing buddy I met in Greece and a few local guys. Our days were spent surfing, catching fish and exploring the desert. Anchor point is right in the heart of west coast African surfing heaven. With Boilers and killer point just round the corner it's a smorgasbord of epic uncrowded waves.
Salt Creek is Slyde's current local home spot. we live a short 5 min walk from this Orange county Bodysurfers must. Salt creek is a punchy fast and epic ride with a guarantee you will get absolutely pitted. Beware though this wave can teach you lesson and never more is the word "body whomp" more applicable than at salt creek. There are also an incredible amount of other epic world class breaks all within a stone throw of each other from Aliso creek, Laguna, Thousand steps and Morro Bay in the North to T street, and trestles in the south.
Well that's it for now if you have any you would like to add to the mix be sure to do so in the comment section below
